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Different Cuts of Diamonds

Understand the Types of Diamond Cuts to Make an Informed Buying Decision

Are you thinking of going diamond shopping? Do you want to buy a breath-taking piece of diamond jewelry that sweeps your beloved off his/her feet? If yes, then you have come to the right place! Diamond shopping can be an overwhelming experience both emotionally and financially especially if it is your first time. Since a diamond is a costly investment, it is good to have a sound understanding of types of diamond cuts so that you can make an informed buying decision. This is where AGI comes into the picture!

At AGI, we provide you quality and comprehensive information on different types of diamond cuts types so that you acquire solid understanding of different diamond cut types and make purchase with full-confidence.

From sleek classic diamond cuts types to modern and unique cuts, today diamonds are available in a wide range of shapes and sizes- simply put, the choices are endless! Some of the popular cuts of diamonds include but are not limited to: Asscher, Cushion, Emerald, Heart, Marquise, Oval, Pear, Princess, Radiant and Round. Each of these is cut to precision, reflecting quality craftsmanship. Read on to find out how each of these diamond cut types differ and the factors to look out for to evaluate its quality and worth.

Types of Different Diamond Cuts

Asscher Cut Diamond

The modern asscher cut diamond is similar to a square emerald cut, usually with larger step facets, a higher crown, and a smaller table. This combination often produces more brilliance than the emerald cut. A well cut asscher will appear to have concentric squares as you look down through the table, the result of proper positioning of the pavilion facets underneath. Like the emerald cut, the asscher cut has cropped corners; however, because an asscher is square, the cropped corners give the asscher cut a somewhat octagonal shape. Once mounted in a four prong setting, the diamond maintains its unique shape within a square silhouette. Asscher Cut Diamond LW Ratios The classic asscher cut diamond is a square (with a length to width ratio of 1.00); however they are often found in slightly rectangular shapes as well. Any ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye. Evaluating color in asscher cut diamonds is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with asscher cut diamonds at the higher end of the diamond color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive. Often, body color is easier to see in an asscher cut diamond (especially over 1.50 carats) because of the large, open facets. Like color, evaluating clarity in asscher cut diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance. Often, inclusions are easier to see in an asscher cut diamond. While an SI1-clarity might be a great balance of price and appearance in other diamond shapes, in asscher cut a VS2 might be a comparable choice.

Cushion Cut Diamond

The cushion cut diamond is basically a square cut diamond with rounded corners, therefore giving the diamond its signature cushion shape. This cut is one of the older cuts of diamond, and indeed it used to be one of the most popular cuts, as popular 200 years ago as the round cut is today. The cushion cut is regaining interest and popularity of late. Traditional cushion cut diamonds return light in a chunkier pattern than modern cuts. Combined with the enlarged culet (which was considered desirable for the pattern created when viewed through the table), this created a distinctive look that is prized today among dealers in antique diamonds.Partially based on cut research initiated by Marcel Tolkowsky in the 1920′s, refinements to cushion cut diamonds over time (such as shrinking the culet, enlarging the table, and improving cut angles for increased brilliance), have led to a resurgence in popularity. Many buyers are attracted to the antique feel combined with modern performance offered by the cushion cut.Cushion Cut Diamond - Three Pavilion PatternsThe standards for cushion cut vary more than most other shapes, and personal taste will dictate choice. While generally less brilliant than round brilliant diamonds, cushion cut diamonds often have better fire, which is part of their appeal. Modern cushion cuts tend to have one of three basic pavilion facet patterns. The third pattern has an extra row of facets on the pavilion and is classified by GIA as a "modified" cushion cut. These modified cuts tend to have a "crushed ice" or needle like facet pattern, more similar to a radiant cut than a traditional cushion cut.

Emerald Cut Diamond

Evaluating color in emerald cut diamonds is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with emerald cut diamonds at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive. Like color, evaluating clarity in emerald cut diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance.Often, inclusions are easier to see in an emerald cut diamond. While an SI1-clarity might be a great balance of price and appearance in other diamond shapes, in emerald cut a VS2 might be a comparable choice.

Heart Cut Diamond

Heart cut diamond of less than .50 carats may not be a good choice, as the heart shape is more difficult to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after they are set in prongs. For smaller hearts, a bezel or three prong setting (one prong on each lobe, one prong at the point) will better preserve the heart shape outline of the diamond after it is set.Heart Shaped Diamond LW Ratios Heart shaped diamonds come in a variety of silhouettes, from narrow to fat. The choice of a particular silhouette should be dictated by personal preference, though the length to width ratio of a classic heart shaped diamond is approximately 1.00. For hearts that are to be set in pendants, buyers may prefer a slightly narrow cut (1.05 – 1.15), while for hearts set in a solitaire ring, a slightly wide cut (.85 – 1.00) may be most appealing.Evaluating color in heart shaped diamonds is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with heart shaped diamonds at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond

Marquise Cut Diamond

Marquise diamonds posses some degree of bow-tie, varying from near invisible to severe. The visibility of a bow-tie effect cannot be ascertained by reviewing the diamond certificate or dimensions, but only upon visual inspection. If you are interested in purchasing a marquise cut diamond, but would like to have it inspected first, please contact us. Marquise Diamond LW Ratios Personal preference should dictate how narrow or fat of a marquise diamond you choose, although a length to width ratio of 1.75 -2.15 is considered the classic marquise cut.Symmetry is very important in marquise cuts. The two end points should align with each other, and the right and left sides should form a near mirror image. Even a slight misalignment in the points can result in an off kilter look in the final setting. For this reason, excellent or very good symmetry is strongly recommended.A marquise diamond should always be set with prongs to protect the two points (the most likely location for chipping). Because these points were once nearest the outer edge of the rough stone, flaws such as naturals, extra facets, and other inclusions may be located here. Since the points are covered by prongs, these flaws will be invisible once the diamond is set. The only remaining concern would be if the flaws are significant enough to affect the stability of the diamond (this is extremely rare, however).

Oval Cut Diamond

Preferences vary on how narrow or fat an oval cut diamond should be, so choose what appeals to you personally (though a length to width ratio of 1.35 – 1.50 is considered the classic oval cut). A slightly thinner cut may look most appealing in a setting where the diamond is flanked by side stones. Oval cut diamond posses some degree of bow-tie, varying from near invisible to severe. The visibility of a bow-tie effect cannot be ascertained by reviewing the diamond certificate or dimensions, but only upon visual inspection. If you are interested in purchasing an oval diamond, but would like to have it inspected first, please contact a diamond consultant, who can review diamonds on your behalf.

Pear Cut Diamond

Ideally, a pear shaped diamond should possess excellent or very good symmetry. The point should line up with the apex of the rounded end. The shoulders and wings (the upper and lower curves on the right and left side of the diamond) should form uniform, symmetrical curves, with no straight edges. The rounded top should not appear narrow or squat, but like a semi-circle. In a misguided effort to add weight to a diamond (by incorporating more of the rough stone in the final cut) cutters may give the diamond added girth near the point or top, giving the diamond a squared off or squatty appearance. Pear Shaped Diamond LW Ratios While the length to width ratio of classic pear shaped diamonds is 1.40-1.70, personal preference will again dictate choice. The shape preference may also be affected by the diamond's eventual setting: A narrow pear diamond is ideal for dangle earrings, while a wider shape might be preferred for a solitaire ring.Pear shaped diamonds posses some degree of bow-tie, varying from near invisible to severe. The visibility of a bow-tie effect cannot be ascertained by reviewing the diamond certificate or dimensions, but only upon visual inspection. If you are interested in purchasing a pear cut diamond, but would like to have it inspected first, please contact a diamond consultant, who can review diamonds on your behalf. A pear diamond should always be set with a prong at the point – the most likely location for chipping on a pear cut diamond. Because this point was once nearest the outer edge of the rough stone, flaws such as naturals, extra facets, and other inclusions may be located here. Since the point is covered by a prong, these flaws will be invisible once the diamond is set. The only remaining concern would be if the flaws are significant enough to affect the stability of the diamond (this is extremely rare, however).

Princess Cut Diamond

 

Princess cut diamonds also tend to have a slightly lower price-per-carat than round cut diamonds. This is because the four sided pyramid shape of the princess cut diamond is similar to one half of the octahedron rough stone from which a princess diamond is cut. This similarity allows two equally sized princess cut diamonds to be cut from the same rough stone with relatively little waist (roughly 60% of the weight of the original rough stone is retained after cutting). The greater efficiency, or yield, translates to a lower price.Carat for carat, the crown surface area of a princess cut is about 10% less than a same-weight round diamond. However, the corner to corner measure of a princess cut is typically 15% greater than the diameter of a same-weight round diamond, creating the illusion of greater size. Princess Cut Diamond LW Ratios. The princess is traditionally a square cut (four sides of equal length). However, many princess cut diamonds are slightly rectangular, though this is often hard to detect. All other things being equal, the more rectangular a princess cut diamond, the lower the price. Many buyers actually prefer a slightly rectangular princess cut; it's all about finding what is most pleasing to you. Any length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye. If the princess will be set with side diamonds, a length to width of 1.05 – 1.08 may still look square, as the side diamonds will create the illusion of greater width in the center stone. A princess cut diamond should always be set with v-shaped prongs that protect the four corners (the most likely location for chipping). Because these corners were once near the outer edge of the rough stone, flaws such as naturals, extra facets, and other inclusions may be located here. Since the corners are covered by the prongs, these flaws will be invisible once the diamond is set. The only remaining concern would be if the flaws are significant enough to affect the stability of the diamond (this is extremely rare, however). Most other square cuts (such as emerald, asscher, and radiant) have cropped corners. Of all of the square cuts, the brilliant-cut princess (along with the radiant cut) comes the closet to achieving the fire and brilliance of a round diamond, making it an ideal combination of unique shape, sparkling appearance, and relative price value. Evaluating color in princess cut diamonds is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with princess cut diamonds at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive.

Radiant Cut Diamond

In longer (more rectangular) radiant cut diamonds, a bow-tie effect is more likely (although not as common as in oval, marquise, and pear cuts), varying from near invisible to severe. The visibility of a bow-tie effect cannot be ascertained by reviewing the diamond certificate or dimensions, but only upon visual inspection. If you are interested in purchasing a radiant cut diamond, but would like to have it inspected first, please contact a diamond consultant, who can review diamonds on your behalf.Radiant Cut Diamond LW Ratios There are diverse preferences when it comes to shape in radiant cut diamonds, from a perfectly square 1.00 length to width ratio (any ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye), to a more traditional rectangle. The rectangular radiant cut is an excellent option for buyers who like the emerald cut shape, but want something with the brilliance of a round. The square radiant looks very similar to a princess cut, but with cropped corners. Once set, a square radiant and a princess look virtually identical, since the prongs cover the corners. Evaluating color in radiant cut diamonds is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with radiant cut diamonds at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive. Like color, evaluating clarity in radiant cut diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance. Because of its brilliance, a radiant cut is more forgiving of inclusions than other square cuts (like asscher and emerald), especially when viewed with the naked eye.

Round Cut Diamond

Virtually all round diamonds are brilliant-cut, meaning they have 58 facets (57 when there is no culet). Round diamonds cost more on a per carat basis than fancy shapes for two reasons; the demand for round diamonds is very high, and the yield is relatively low. Because more of the rough stone is lost in the cutting of a round diamond, the cost of each carat retained is higher. A typical round diamond (for example; a 1.00 carat, F-color, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) may cost 25-35% more than a similar fancy shape.The round diamond began to rise in popularity in 1919 with the publication of Marcel Tolkowsky's thesis "Diamond Design: A Study of the Reflection and Refraction of Light in Diamond". Tolkowsky's work described the ideal proportions of a round cut diamond for maximizing light return (or brilliance) and dispersion (or fire). The original Tolkowsky specifications (53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.50 crown angle, visible culet) have since been modified as the cut mechanics for round diamonds have perfected over time. These theoretical advancements, as well as advancements in technology (such as the use of lasers in diamond cutting), have been adopted by diamond manufacturers to produce the incredibly brilliant cuts we see today in well cut round diamonds.

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